No one knows precisely why the size and shape of
copper stills, which vary from distillery to distillery, play
such a vital part in defining the character of the whisky. But
no one doubts that they do. Which is why, when replacing or repairing
a pot still, distillers will nearly always insist on replicating
the original.
"In the old days, this could mean reproducing
every dent and bump," says Richard Forsyth, managing director
of Foryths, who have built and maintained generations of copper
stills. "But now distillers adopt a more enlightened view."
Forsyths (previously A. Forsyth & Son) have
been in Rothes on Speyside since 1890. Richard's grandfather bought
the company for which he originally worked as a coppersmith, and
carried on serving the many local distilleries. Today the company's
customer base is worldwide, with equipment designed and manufactured
at the factory at Rothes shipped to countries as far apart as
Jamaica and Japan. In recent years it has successfully diversified
into other market sectors, but the craft of the coppersmith remains
at the heart of the business.
Forsyths built the existing copper stills at the
Aberlour Distillery, and those that came before them. At least
once a year the stills are meticulously examined and overhauled
- a "fitness test", Richard calls it - to ensure that
they are in tiptop condition. A key part of this is testing the
thickness of the copper. This used to be done by tapping it with
a hammer, the state of the metal reflected in the sound made;
nowadays they have ultrasonic equipment. "As a rule of thumb,"
says Richard, "when the copper has worn to less than half
its original thickness, it's time for a replacement."
Different parts wear out faster than others. On
the wash still, for example, the heads and condensers need to
be replaced every eight to ten years, while the copper pot can
last as long as 25 years. With the slightly smaller spirit still,
it is the other way round. The head, swan-like neck and condenser
last for 20-25 years, but the pot itself probably no more than
ten.
It takes four coppersmiths about eight to ten weeks
to construct an average size still. The individual pieces of copper,
hammered and shaped to meet exactly the required specifications,
are welded together on site - whether it is Aberlour or Kentucky.
This is faster than using rivets, as they used to do, but no less
demanding. Indeed, despite the introduction of more sophisticated
equipment, it still requires traditional craftsmanship, with each
copper still having to be individually fashioned.
The skills of the coppersmith, like the pot stills
they make, are passed on from one generation to another. And Richard
Forsyth is happy to report that there is no sign of the trade
dying out, with plenty of young applicants eager to embark on
the challenging five-year apprenticeship. Good news for the copper
still - and for the wondrous spirit that inhabits it.
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